This is how the guide at Ethiopia's National Museum greets you, referring to the country as the "Cradle of Civilization," where we all once were. The guide then leads you to one of the most important fossils ever discovered in Ethiopia: Lucy, an Australopithecus who lived 3.2 million years ago. While Lucy isn't from the Homo erectus family, she holds the distinction of being the first bipedal fossil, basically a symbol of our early ancestors walking upright. So, women were walking before men! although over time now it seems like we're still catching up
The tour, which takes about one to two hours, will also introduce you to other ancient fossils of animals. But it’s not all about the past—one of the highlights of the museum includes exhibits featuring Ethiopian Airlines aircraft. For anyone who has used Ethiopian Airlines over the years, you'd agree with me that its transition in history deserves its own spot in the national museum!
National Musuem in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Injera food or utensil?
When you’re served what seems like one portion of Ethiopian food but actually looks like food for five, don’t be surprised. It’s simply part of Ethiopia’s tradition of sharing meals and offering more than enough to guests. In fact, having some food left on your plate is a sign that you’ve been well-fed!
The star of Ethiopian cuisine is injera, a sourdough flatbread made from fermented, gluten-free teff flour, which is locally grown in Ethiopia. The fermentation process gives it a unique spongy texture and a tangy, sour taste. But injera is more than just a side dish—it also serves as the utensil! The flatbread is spread out on a large plate, and all the food is served on top of it. Whether it’s a rich chicken stew (Dorowat), flavorful lamb or beef tibs, or a vegetable medley, the injera absorbs the sauces and flavors. Most dishes are seasoned with Berbere, a special Ethiopian spice mix that’s bold, aromatic, and a must-try. The flavors can be intense, so if you're a fan of spices, you're in for a treat
A typical Ethiopian platter
Where to eat? As you explore the streets, you’ll come across two types of eateries. The first are casual spots serving authentic local Ethiopian food, coffee, and drinks—these are simple, affordable, and delicious. Places like Abyssynia, Totot, and Mitmita.
The second type includes more upscale venues where you can enjoy a buffet of traditional Ethiopian dishes, partake in an Ethiopian coffee ceremony, and sample local drinks, including Habesha Beer, a popular choice. These restaurants often feature an Ethiopian cultural performance to top off your meal. Fendika on Friday nights, African Jazz Village on Thursdays, Bonanza Hotel on Fridays and Saturdays, and Upscale on weekends are all good spots.
Another less heard of food place to try is actually in Ethiopian Airlines, they serve a full spread of Ethiopian food, with coffee, coupled with Ethiopian greetings and documentaries on Ethiopia on the media console. The airline is the most ‘national’ airline offering I have seen
Remnants of Italians in Ethiopia. Did you know Ethiopia is the only country in Africa that was never colonized? Well, except for a brief period when the Italians had their moment of occupation (note occupation not colonization). While that chapter was short-lived, you can still feel the Italian influence around Addis Ababa, especially in places like Piazza Square, which has a Roman piazza vibe, the mercatos (local markets), Italian restaurants (Ristorante de Bruno, Mama Mia) and most importantly, the espresso!
One of the coolest legacies from the Italian era is Tamoca Coffee. Founded by the Italians back in the 1930s, this coffee brand is still going strong, and it exports Ethiopian coffee all over the world. You can even visit a local coffee brewery to sample different brews and take some home. I remember going to Addis Ababa with my Italian colleagues who tried and vouched for the Tamoca coffee as legitimate, so thats that
Danikal Depression or Mars? Located at the northernmost tip of Ethiopia, bordering Eritrea in the Afar Region, the Danakil Depression is one of the most extreme environments I have ever experienced
As I was walking, I could already feel the oppressive temperatures (they reach a staggering 64°C (147°F)). The heat hits more strongly in the region because it sits 410 feet (125 meters) below sea level, creating a ‘heat bowl effect’ that traps the scorching air.
What I saw around me were vast salt flats, more than ten times the salinity of sea water—active volcanoes, hot springs, and geysers that seem to steam and bubble with raw energy. I stood by the edge of a salt lake, staring at the striking colors of the land and the almost alien landscape around me.
The pH level of the water was below 2, so acidic that it can burn your skin if you’re not careful. The air itself was thick with sulfur, adding to the discomfort, and it felt like I was walking through another planet. The thrill of a 20-something-year-old me wanting that adrenaline rush is what helped me survive; I do not think I would today if I went back now. One of those experiences that are best had at a certain point in time?
Land of Danakail Depression, Ethiopia
Standing at the edge of the world at Erta Ale
I remember standing on the rim of the Erta Ale volcano. The sky was pitch black, only lit by the red glow of the bubbling lava inside the crater. The sound of the lava gurgling and popping into the air broke the otherwise eerie silence. The air was thick with the scent of sulfur, and while the heat was intense, it was the mosquitoes that seemed to have the most impact on me—perhaps the only sign of life other than the adventurous me and a couple of college friends I dragged along with me.
It's not a trip you would want to do alone—one for misery needs company (it can get pretty miserable), and second, purely for security reasons. Erta Ale is located in a very remote part of northern Ethiopia, where the entire region is cut off from modern conveniences—there are no paved roads, no souvenir shops, no network, and not even security perimeters. The lack of security perimeters—including any railing on the rim—is what allowed me to stand on the rim of the volcano and look down at the lava. There are many other active volcanoes in the world, but not one so untamed, unexplored, and unseen.
Entoto’s escape in the clouds. I enjoy cities that offer a nature escape, whether it’s a sprawling public garden like London’s Hyde Park, Nairobi’s National Park right in the middle of the city, or a mini hilltop getaway like Entoto in the heart of Addis Ababa.
The hike to Entoto’s summit, which sits at 10,000 feet (3,200 meters), spans about 5-15 km (3-10 miles). Plan for 4-5 hours for the round trip, though you might want to budget an extra hour to enjoy a hot coffee at the brewery or indulge in an Ethiopian breakfast on the slope, it’s the perfect way to spend a Sunday morning.
The ‘New Jerusalem’ at Lalibela. So legend has it King Lalibela (13th century) wanted to create a Christian pilgrimage site that could serve as a substitute for Jerusalem, especially after the Crusaders captured the Holy Land, making it difficult for Ethiopian Christians to travel there. And so, gigantic monolithic churches were carved out on the mountainside in actual rock. This is Lalibela today. One of the characteristic features of the Lalibela is a distinct cross, also called the ‘Ethiopian Cross’. Its cross shaped, with added filligree and symetrical patterns on metal making it a unique art piece, or design element imprinted on books/clothes/merchandise. I remember picking some up, and they distinctly remind me of Ethiopia
Ethiopian Cross depictions
Ethiopian masks? African masks? For anyone who has travelled across Africa, you’ve probably come across more than one market displaying African masks. I have gone to several of these and picked up masks to build a collection that I now display in my house. As I was going through the hunt to find masks, I realised how the masks might represent different tribes/regions they’re from? (this is my unsubstantiated theory based on anecdotal observation). Ethiopian masks I bought had tall, elongated faces, broad foreheads, and thin, refined noses—reflecting the actual physiognomy of the Ethiopian people. Congolese masks were full-faced, robust, —with bulging eyes, bold lips and facial features, and Kenyan masks, were slimmer, with clean lines and fine beadwork. I corroborated some of this theory with the shop-sellers but they also added legends of gods and satan that reside behind the design of the masks — so we do not know for sure. Anyhow, if you do collect masks, observe the differences, and circle back to me please if you agree
Finds from Shumeta Art Gallery
Closing reflection: It will be an uncomfortable trip (weather, infrastructure, language barriers) - but the one person who can make it easy and fun is the Ethiopian historian/guide/comic I came across Gashaw. Hope you get a chance to “Go Back to Where it all Began”
