Somaliland in the air, and on land. It didn’t take long after boarding my flight from Ethiopia to Hargeisa, Somaliland to be reminded of where I was headed. The plane made a few sharp, almost 90-degree turns—maneuvers designed to stay at a safe altitude and out of the shooting range of Al Shabab, the militant group active in parts of Somalia. Definitely not your average flight path.
As we got closer to landing, one of the flight attendants approached me and politely asked that I fully cover my head before we touched down. I’ve traveled to plenty of conservative and theocratic countries, especially in the Middle East, and flown with their national airlines, but this was a first—being asked to observe a dress code while still in the air. I obliged, of course. It’s all about reading the room—or in this case, the skies
Landing in Hargeisa, the airport felt worn-down but functional. Just outside were rocky, untarred roads, where mostly older vehicles navigated the rough terrain—definitely the kind of place that calls for a 4x4 vehicle. In the distance, the call to prayer echoed—a sound that would repeat five times a day.
It wasn’t just something you heard; you could see it too. People would stop what they were doing, gather in small groups along the street, and pray. Several of my meetings were interrupted as everyone left to perform their prayers. In Somaliland, religion is everyday life—woven into the rhythm of the day in a way that’s both public and deeply personal.
Fighter Jet in the middle of the road?
As I drove into the city, I spotted a downed MiG fighter jet mounted on a pedestal, frozen in time and painted with the Somaliland flag—right in the center of a busy four-way crossing. It’s hard to miss. My driver told me this striking display is the Somaliland War Memorial, a powerful symbol of the 1900s aerial bombardment of Hargeisa by the regime of Somalia’s former ruler, Siad Barre.
The story goes, that 1900s attack devastated Hargeisa—leaving much of the city in ruins and killing tens of thousands. But it also sparked the resistance movement that would ultimately lead Somaliland to declare independence in 1991. Today, locals pass by the memorial every day. For many, it stands as a reminder of how far they've come from destruction to peace, from war-torn to rebuilding.
Nation in a State
Back when I was studying at the University of Oxford, I took a political science elective where we discussed the difference between a ‘Nation’ and a ‘State’. At the time, it felt a bit abstract—something you’d write about in an exam and forget the next day. But years later, standing in Somaliland, that distinction finally clicked in a very real way
A nation is all about people—those who share a common language, culture, history, and identity.
Somaliland fits that definition perfectly. Its people have a shared story, shaped in part by a distinct past—while Somalia was under Italian rule, Somaliland was a British protectorate. Add in their own dialect, traditional law known as xeer, and strong cultural pride, and you’ve got a tightly knit national identity. Somaliland definitely feels like a nation.
But a state? That’s different. A state is about borders, governance, and—most crucially—international recognition.
And that’s where Somaliland’s situation gets complicated. Since breaking away from Somalia in 1991, they’ve set up their own government, constitution, currency, and security forces. On paper—and on the ground—they function like an independent country. But because they’re not officially recognized by most of the world, you won’t find Somaliland marked as a state on global maps.
Being a millionaire in Hargeisa. I remember strolling through the money market in Hargeisa and spotting street vendors chilling in clusters under colorful little stalls, each proudly displaying a rainbow of currencies for trade. The exchange rate? 1 USD to about 8,000 Somaliland Shillings. I walked away with what felt like bricks of cash. It was during this trip that I think my inner notaphilist (currency note collector) was born. Since then, I’ve made it a thing—collecting banknotes from every country I visit.
My own kind of quirky trust fund for the kids one day
Money Market in Hargeisa, Somaliland
Camel is King. The camel holds a central place in Somaliland, reflecting the region’s nomadic pastoralist heritage, economic practices, and dietary preferences. Back in the day, camels were the only real way to cross the vast desert, and even today, they’re still used to carry cargo over long distances in areas where modern transport isn’t available. You can see them make their way on the roads along with cars, bicycles and pedestrians
Somalia, including Somaliland, is also one of the world’s largest exporters of camels—especially to the Middle East, where there’s high demand for both camel meat and camel milk, making camels a major economic asset and source of livelihood. On the food front, camel meat is packed with protein and considered something of a delicacy, often served with baaris (rice), canjeero (flatbread), and shaah (Somali spiced tea).
So yes—whether it’s on your plate, in your wallet, or hauling goods across the landscape, the camel really is king here.
Parts of the city
Safe abode? As you probably know, most of Somalia (and technically Somaliland too, since it’s not officially recognized as an independent state) is considered high-risk for travel due to ongoing security concerns. While that’s mostly true for southern Somalia, Hargeisa in Somaliland is a different story—it’s calmer, more stable, and generally much safer. Why, you might wonder? I was told it’s a sort of “gentlemen’s agreement” between Mogadishu and Hargeisa—because many militants’ families, including children and wives, need a safe and accessible place to stay- but again this is probably more legend/rumour than fact.
That said, because Somaliland remains under the radar for most tourists, you won’t find crowds or a wide range of accommodation. One option I’d recommend is the Ambassador Hotel—conveniently located near both the airport and the city center, with decent security and most of the comforts a traveler might need. You’ll also find hotels like Hotel Jazeera and Hotel Sahal, plus a few new spots opening up, thanks to increased investment. Much of the city’s infrastructure development—from hotels and telecom towers to even the airport—has been funded by local investors and the Somali diaspora, who continue to play a key role in Somaliland’s slow but steady growth.
Comfortable stay at Th Ambassador hotel
Untamed Borders outside Hargeisa. Excursions outside Hargeisa offer some of Somaliland’s most compelling experiences. There is Berbera—a historic Red Sea port town located on the northern coast. Another is Laas Geel, home to some of the earliest known rock art in Africa. The prehistoric cave paintings, estimated to be over 5,000 years old, are spread across multiple rock shelters and depict human figures, domestic animals, and ritual scenes.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get to visit these sites during my work trip due to security clearance restrictions. That said, tours with private security are available, often arranged by niche travel operators like Untamed Borders or curated through small groups within the Atlas Obscura community—for the brave, adventurous souls.
For the lesser brave souls—myself included (my personal triple threat: potential Al Shabab activity inland, Somali pirates on the coast, and shark-infested waters offshore)—there are excellent ways to explore Somaliland from afar. Documentaries like the BBC’s "Lost Land of the Camel" and "Somaliland: The Forgotten Nation" offer deep narratives and visuals. For a broader context on Somalia’s geopolitical history, the 2001 documentary “Black Hawk Down” provides dramatic insight into the country’s fractured relationship with the rest of the world
Closing reflection: I remember my heart going out to the government officials I met, and locals who handed me and my team flags and T-shirts proudly printed with “Somaliland,” asking us to take them back home and help discuss the cause of the nation’s statehood
