Spotted this sketched on one of the houses on the streets in Juba City
Preparing for South Sudan. I had to train in self-defense before traveling to South Sudan. Veterans at the training camp would often say, “The body cannot go where the mind has not been,” and I learned that psychological resilience matters. While I never directly encountered threats and did not come close to perfecting combat skills, my big takeaway was the importance of building mental fortitude. At one instance, when I was stopped by military patrols at the airport in Juba, the ability to act with calmness and optimism turned out to be my most valuable asset. This metal fotitude for me was learned, but for people in South Sudan it is very much lived. It makes them perhaps one of the most resilient people in the world.
The most lasting lesson I learned came from the people I met on the ground.
There were junior staff who’d lost family during the war, yet returned to help rebuild their country. Refugees without ID struggling to get aid, government workers who hadn’t been paid in months—and yet, almost every interaction was met with warmth, grace, and a smile. It was humbling. The resilience, optimism, and dignity people carried despite the odds made me reflect. South Sudan didn’t really challenge me to be more prepared or teach me how to deal with insecurity; it showed me the extent of resilience that exists in humankind. None of my problems have seemed big enough since.
So why did the world’s youngest nation become a country where one needs security briefings?
Since gaining independence from Sudan in 2011, and enjoying only a brief period of peace, the country descended into a brutal civil war in 2013. The conflict was driven by a tribe based power struggle between President Salva Kiir (from the Dinka ethnic group) and his then and current Vice President Riek Machar (representing the Nuer tribe). Resultingly, there was localized violence, extreme food insecurity, displacement of millions, and widespread poverty, with over 80% of the population pushed below the poverty line. (South Sudan is still today among the three most poor nations in the world)
Fast forward to 2018, with signing of a peace agreement and formation of a unity government which has since improved the situation on the ground. But the country remains fragile, not just politically but also economically. The economy is heavily reliant on oil, with 90% of government revenue coming from petroleum exports. It’s a textbook case of what my Economics professor at school called a resource curse, where natural riches contribute to corruption, conflict, and stagnation rather than development in a country.
Much of what I had read about South Sudan’s macroeconomic challenges was reflected visibly on the streets of Juba, the capital. Non-tarmac roads, dilapidated buildings, abandoned military gear, and even rusting tanks lined the roadsides. At nearly every mile, I saw military personnel—some appearing to be no older than 13 or 14. The city still bears the scars of war and seems to be grappling with how to rebuild from it
6Pm/11pm? Given the history of conflict and security challenges in South Sudan, bars and other nightlife establishments are required to close by 11 p.m. due to curfew regulations imposed by the government. So when I walked into a bar at 6 p.m., I witnessed what any restaurant/bar setting around the world might look like at 11 p.m—dining beginning to wrap up, music picking up, and the dance floor being cleared to ease into the 'night'
On the positive, it was actually quite refreshing to have a full night out experience until 11 p.m. and return home before midnight to get a good night’s rest! It felt like the perfect balance between socializing and still getting enough sleep for the next day
River and Land. Sitting by the banks of the White Nile in Juba, enjoying a meal at The Nile Restaurant (Afex), and being served Nile perch felt like a true celebration of both the river and the land. The Nile perch stew preparation is perhaps the best local food item to try. The fish is marinated with spices like garlic, ginger, lemon, and local herbs before being fried or stewed in a tomato-based sauce with onions, green peppers, and sometimes coconut milk
On the Banks of the river, at Afex restaurant popular among embassy, diplomat staff
Trekking on the small juba hills and looking up to the South Sudanese
Weekend mornings in Juba come with a pretty cool perk: trekking up the city’s low, rocky hills. One of the main spots is called Jebel, a collection of bouldery outcrops and gentle peaks—just enough of a climb to break a sweat without needing hiking boots and a survival kit.
As you climb, you realize that the hills aren’t the only things towering around here. South Sudan is home to some of the tallest people in the world—especially among the Dinka and Nuer tribes, where average heights are around 6 feet, and some individuals reach 6'5" or more. Walking next to them, I’d feel like a hobbit—neck craned, trying to keep up. My male friends even joked that some public urinals were so high, they needed a boost just to reach them!
Views in Juba
Wedding business and cattle. In South Sudan, cows are more than just livestock—they’re currency, status symbols, and a central part of love and marriage. In this predominantly pastoral and farming-based society, cattle represent wealth and stability. So when it comes to getting married, it’s not about rings or fancy venues—it’s about cows
A man’s herd is his résumé.
The bride’s family will carefully assess the size and quality of his cattle—how strong the bulls are, how healthy the cows look, and how prized the heifers seem. Only if the animals impress will the marriage be approved. It’s a serious transaction, too: a single top-quality cow can fetch anywhere between $3,000 and $10,000. Love comes at a price.
Open air squash. As someone who usually carries her squash rackets with her on travels, I was pleasantly surprised to find a place to play in Juba. For anyone who plays, you know how hard it is to find squash courts because they require fixed infrastructure—indoor spaces with AC. But Juba had something totally different—an open-air squash court! It had four walls, a net on top to keep the ball from flying away, and enough natural airflow to make it work. It was unique and a lot of fun to play on
The court is part of a cool multi-use space set up by Elizabeth Rehman, a British humanitarian. It’s not just for playing squash; it's also a spot where aid workers and locals can meet over coffee, creating a wonderful blend of community and recreation in the heart of Juba.
Closing reflection: Having worked and lived in South Sudan I naturally feel close to the poeple and the country. I follow the political developments, and wish stability and peace returns in time. I understand the security situation may limit people from seeing the country, although for the brave souls there is Atlas obscura, and Untamed Borders which organise guided tours, or/and have communities who can share experiences from local travels. In any case, whether you decide to visit or not, I hope you can still connect with, hope for and learn from the spirit of my South Sudanese friends.
For those intersted in learning more, there is the VICE series ‘Saving South Sudan’, and documentary “We Come as Friends" (2014)” which traces the history of the long and ongoing conflict
