Roadsigns in Nairobi National Park, and also streets in the city
Giraffes, baby Elephants and Warthogs have ‘Right of Way’. Walking into the Nairobi Safari Walk, located near the Nairobi National Park, you’ll notice signs every few feet that read, “children and warthogs have right of way.” Interestingly, you’ll often see more warthogs (aka Pumbas) than children making the most of this quirky rule
The Great Migration towards greener pastures. Every year between July and October, millions of wildebeest (remember Lion King?) embark on the legendary ‘Great Migration’, crossing the Mara River from Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park into Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve in search of greener pastures. These animals brave the fast-moving river, dodging predators like hippos and crocodiles lurking in the waters, only to be met on the opposite shore by the big cats—lions, cheetahs, and hyenas. Only a few survive to feast on the lush grasslands, while many others become prey
Witnessing this dramatic spectacle of the Great Migration is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience—or in my case, now three times over (or for David Attenborough, I imagine never enough)
You can watch the migration from either side: the expansive Serengeti in Tanzania, known for its vast landscapes, or the more densely populated Masai Mara in Kenya. I’d recommend pairing a Serengeti visit with a trek around the Ngorongoro Crater and a beach stay in Zanzibar, while the Masai Mara side pairs well with exploring the rest of Kenya, or just to the safari experience in and of it itself. In any case, its an experience you will not forget
Masai Mara National Park, near the Mara River
Types of Safari, why just do one? There’s the classic Day Safari, where you drive across vast savannahs dotted with golden grasslands and iconic acacia trees, spotting a wide variety of wildlife—including the famous Big Five—elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, and rhino.
There is the Night Safari; armed with powerful spotlights on your vehicle or headgear, you explore the hidden world of nocturnal creatures. Expect to see hippos grazing openly, big owls perched on trees—or even on your vehicle—and other animals that only come alive after dark. Both safaris are typically done in an open-top Land Rover, the most common and comfortable way to cover large distances while observing wildlife safely.
For the more adventurous, there’s the Walking Safari. This intimate, on-foot experience is usually done in small groups led by trained guides—unless you’re a Maasai, for whom walking among wildlife is just part of everyday life. Walking safaris give you a close-up look at animal tracks, plants, insects, and subtle animal behaviors you’d miss from a vehicle. Imagine scenes straight out of a National Geographic documentary, narrated by David Attenborough. Walking safaris require specialized training in animal behavior and are not for everyone (I’m yet to try it myself).
Finally, there’s the Aerial Safari. Whether by hot air balloon, helicopter, or small bush plane, this offers great views of the landscape from above. Watching herds of elephants or zebras move like living patterns across the plains from the sky is a completely different kind of magic
Life in the Mara; safaris & bush breakfast&sundowners
Swahili food, and also immigrant food
Swahili food, typically featuring a staple like Ugali (a dense maize flour rice ball) paired with flavorful curries such as Nyama Choma (grilled meat) blended with local spices, is widely available across local restaurants in Nairobi
Amid these local spots, you’ll also find a vibrant mix of non-local eateries run by Kenya’s diverse communities, including Kenyan-Indians, Kenyan-Lebanese, and Kenyan-Chinese populations. For Lebanese cuisine, my go to was the charming Hob House, located in a beautifully converted colonial mansion. Indian food lovers can head to Diamond Plaza, home to popular spots like Open House and Clay Oven. Craving Japanese? Try Cheka. For Ethiopian flavors, Abysinnia offers an authentic experience. These restaurants are often run by immigrant communities who have long made Kenya their home.
When it comes to drinks, Nairobi has several bars, but only one overlooks the iconic Nairobi National Park. At Ole Sereni, here you can sip a refreshing Dawa, a local cocktail made with vodka, lime, honey, and sugar, while watching giraffes stroll by—does not get better.
Cycling on Pride Rock in Hell’s Gate. Did you know The Lion King was pictorised in the Hell’s Gate National Park in Kenya? The animation team spent days here sketching and soaking in the scenery—and if you visit, you’ll spot Fischer’s Tower, believed to be the real-life inspiration for Pride Rock
My head did some visual hallucinations as I watched the rock in front of me almost seeing baby Simba standing on the rock looking out in the distance
Unlike most parks in Kenya, Hell’s Gate doesn’t have big predators, making it the only national park where you can freely walk or cycle through the wild. Its a long path with uneven terrain so think of taking the electric+regular bike combination like I did
Two things to be cautious of here; lone buffaloes—solitary African buffaloes are famously unpredictable and surprisingly dangerous, responsible for more human attacks in the wild than lions!—and flash floods. During the rainy season, sudden flooding in the gorge can trap hikers and cyclists, so always check the weather before heading out
Pride Rock (The Lion King), and Pride Rock (Hell's Gate National Park)
Bring Your Own Ingredients (BYOI). An open-flame, outdoor Karoga experience is hands down one of the most unique meals I’ve ever had. Karoga isn’t just about food; it’s about entertainment — picture a semi-outdoor setup with music playing, the sizzle of meat on the fire, and the rich aromas of spices filling the air as you and your crew cook together. It’s also about education — want to learn the secrets of Swahili-style Nyama Choma? Hire a local chef (totally optional) who’ll guide you on how to stir the pot like a pro.
And above all, it’s about engagement — you’re not just eating; you’re stepping into the kitchen as a chef or sous chef, hands-on, flame-on, making your own meal
You’ll leave full, happy, and maybe even inspired. Like me, you might end up telling everyone about it, dreaming of hosting your own Karoga in the backyard, or even opening a Karoga-style spot far from Africa. Honestly — why isn’t this everywhere already?
Trekking over the Ngong hills, Mount Kenya or Kilimanjaro. As a great starting point—and perfect for training—Ngong Hills near Nairobi offer a set of seven hills spanning 6–10 miles of trekking paths, ideal for a refreshing Sunday morning activity. The trek takes you through eucalyptus forests with views of the Great Rift Valley, leaving you feeling like you’ve truly earned an elaborate brunch. I completed the trek with a group called ‘women who hike’, and remember meeting some people who I am friends with even today. I also recall being exhausted and enjoying a meal with multiple courses at near by Karura Forest
Once you’ve conquered Ngong Hills, you can step up to trekking Africa’s second highest mountain—Mount Kenya. This adventure requires 4-5 days, moderate fitness, some acclimatization to elevation, and optionally a guide (though many have done it solo). Completing the Mount Kenya trek earns you respect among locals, who often summit early in life, and confidence to attempt the continent’s highest peak: Mount Kilimanjaro.
Kilimanjaro takes 6-7 days, demands higher fitness levels, better altitude acclimatization, and a reliable guide or porter is highly recommended. The trek mostly crosses grasslands, so technical gear or snowshoes aren’t necessary unless you plan to reach the snowy Uhuru Peak.
I’ve done both Ngong Hills and Mount Kenya—and I’m aiming for Kilimanjaro later this year. For context, I’m a 5’4” woman weighing about 100 pounds—if I can do it, anyone can.
Mount Kenya at the Equator, and Killimajaro spotting in Amboseli National Park
White sand beaches of the Indian Ocean. If you happen to visit the Kenyan coast, consider taking the scenic train from Nairobi to Mombasa and snagging a window seat. Along the way, you’ll pass through Tsavo National Park, where giraffes and other wildlife might stroll alongside the tracks. I highly recommend watching Maneaters of Tsavo during the roughly 4-hour journey to feel fully immersed in the legendary story of these infamous lions and maybe even recognise some of the surroundings you’ll be seeing from the window
Once you arrive in Mombasa, an old trading city with vibrant coastal charm, you’ll find it busier than the quieter beach towns nearby. Most travelers use it as a gateway to or quikck stop towards the white sands of Diani Beach, a must-visit on the Kenyan coast.
Here, you can enjoy classic beach activities like water sports and feast on fresh seafood—red and white snapper are local delicacies. For something a bit different, try adventurous experiences like Skydive Diani, horseback riding along the shoreline, or dining at a unique cave restaurant (all three tried and highly recommended!).
Move with the Masai market, or circle the spinner’s web. The local Masai handicraft market is set up daily across different locations in Nairobi, inviting the Masai tribes and local artisans from across Kenya to display unique handicrafts. These range from wooden sculptures, Masai shuka and Ankara print designs (a type of checkered print characteristic to the region), to beads, jewelry, and similar crafts.
To take back a keepsake, you’ll need two things: first, cash, as most sales are cash-based; and second, strong negotiation skills. For those lacking either or both, there is always Spinner’s Web — a trade craft cooperative offering an equally diverse range of handicrafts with fixed prices, where you can pay by card.
Finds in Masai Market, Spinner's Web
The United Nations spillover in Karura and Village Market. Nairobi, being a regional hub for the United Nations, attracts many international professionals who live and move in and out of the city. As a result, you’ll find duty-free shops, an international market featuring foreign brands such as the Village Market, and more European-currency-friendly dining options in areas like Gigiri and near Karura Forest. There are also nightclubs such as J’s Club and The Alchemist, frequented by a diverse international crowd
A person I met in one of these spots once shared with me “An expat’s guide to living in Nairobi” — covering everything from which SIM card to buy, the best taxi service (Bolt over Uber), recommended yoga classes, where and what to eat, how to learn Kazumba (a variant of salsa popular in Nairobi clubs), and even how to pick up basic Swahili. I’d be happy to share it with you if you’re an expat moving to Nairobi — or a former expat like me who looks back and smiles.
The Safari Walk is one of several animal conservation centers in Nairobi where abandoned or injured animals from the neighboring Nairobi National Park are rescued, cared for, and eventually released back into the savannah. Here, visitors can get close to domesticated animals like warthogs, baboons, and even cheetahs, with opportunities to feed them during meal times. It is great for a group esp. family day trip
Another popular spot is the Giraffe Centre, where you can get “too” close for comfort with the endangered Rothschild giraffes by feeding them pellets and even exchanging kisses. For a more nurturing experience, the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Elephant Orphanage offers the chance to adopt and feed baby elephants milk from a bottle. All proceeds from tickets to these centers go directly towards supporting vital wildlife conservation efforts in Kenya
Walking ‘Out of Africa’ with grazers on an island. A few hours from Nairobi and near Lake Naivasha lies Crescent Island — a moon-shaped island home to grazers, giraffes, zebras, waterbucks, and antelopes. This stunning island was famously chosen as a filming location for the Hollywood movie Out of Africa, based on the memoir by Danish author Karen Blixen. To recreate specific scenes, such as Karen Blixen (played by Meryl Streep in one of her most iconic roles) walking with the grazers, animals were brought to the island and have since remained.
Visiting Crescent Island offers the unique experience of a ‘walking safari’, where you walk alongside giraffes, zebras, and antelopes on the island
If you decide to visit, I highly recommend staying at Chui Lodge, located within the Oserengoni Wildlife Sanctuary. This intimate lodge features only eight cottages and offers a personalized, tastefully curated experience including guided safaris, boat rides, flower workshops, nature trails, and customized meals
Cosy safaris with masai blankets and zebra love, Chui Lodge
Exploring North, & South of Nairobi
In the northern regions, particularly in Samburu, you can encounter both black and white rhinos. A memorable experience for me was meeting a blind rhino named Barrack, whom I got to pet and hug up-close!. Interestingly, many establishments and even animals are named "Barrack," reflecting the historical ties of former U.S. President Barack Obama with Kenya? or consumer brands driving mileage?
South of Nairobi is Lake Nakuru, known for its vast congregation of flamingos. At times, the lake hosts over a million flamingos. These birds feed on the algae in the lake, which gives them their distinctive pink hue. There is also the largest concentrations of elephants in East Africa at Amboseli National Park. Local guides would tell me the ears of African elephants are shaped like the African continent. I was never really able to confirm
Samburu, Amboseli and Nakuru National Parks and their treasures
Karibu and Kwaheri Kenya. You'll be welcomed in Kenya with a warm "Karibu" (meaning "welcome"), a big smile, and the famous "Jambo Kenya Masuri Sana" song that plays in most taxis and hotel lobbies. Its infectious rhythm and lively tone make it unforgettable. I remember singing the song with my friends during the long rides on safaris. "Kwaheri ya kuonana" translates to "Goodbye until we meet again," the Swahili equivalent of "au revoir." It's the last sign you see at the airport as you fly out.
I lived in Kenya for two years—the "Karibu" and "Kwaheri" became significant sentiments, and admittedly, also the only two Swahili words I may have picked up (it's a tough language!). On second thoughts, I also know "Jambo" = Hello, "Asante" = Thank You, and my go-to word of most days "Hakuna Matata" = No worries, Be Happy.
Welcome (at the UN) & Goodbye (at the airport)
Concluding reflction. I lived in Kenya for two years, and during this time I travelled in-and out of the country often, encountering people at airports, friends of friends and others who would all ask me questions about Kenya with genuine curiosity. Some of the most outlandish questions I got were “Do you get water in Kenya”, “Do you need a British Visa to travel” or “Is Nairobi Nai’robbery’?”. I made it a point to correct narrative/prejudices/biases alreayd excaercbated by news/media around. Perhaps this travelogue is also one step in that direction. And in that vein, I want to reiterate that the time I spent in my early 20s as a girl by myself in Nairobi was safe, very fun and the most adventurous experience of my life. I hope you get to experience this for yourself!
