Credits to EicharPhotography crew who happened to be in my trekking group and captured this perfect ‘Sunday Mood’
I was on a work trip to Rwanda and decided to use the weekend (this is how I have done most of my travels, on the sidelines of work) to see what I had seen on the national currency notes, on Rwanda Tourism billboards and read extensively about - the giant silverback gorillas
I began my trek at dawn (5:00 am), actually 3:00 am if you count the drive from Kigali to Musanze. After going through the group briefing, and mandatory Covid-19 test (was required back then), I was let in the big rainforest. The treak itself was a lot of navigating the thick vegetation and steep trails in search of the Gorillas. Trek lengths vary from short (1–2 hours) to intense (5–6 hours), and unless you’re limited physically, I’d strongly recommend the longest route to immerse yourself fully in the wild- this is the choice I made
The trek is a game of hide and seek with the gorillas. They move across the misty rainforest to find remote clearings where they gather with their families. And in the meanwhile, It was me sloshing through mud, crawling under tangled undergrowth, and slicing through bush with a machete to find them. At some point I stopped counting the bugs stuck to my boots and nettle stings on my body, as I moved scanning for black fur. Eventually the group and I found them. Just 1–2 feet away (that is how close you can get to them), massive silverbacks moved calmly among us
Was it terrifying? Yes. When I instinctively stepped back, our guide stopped me and made a deep, rumbling sound. Upon hearing this sound, the gorillas responded with calm acceptance, and went about carrying their business, which is mainly walking through the forest stopping for food or rest
How did it feel? there was some degree of fear, the groillas are 1 ft away from you and with their overwhelming size, 10-20x my weight and bite strength, fear is probbaly just an evolved evolutionary response. As much as I was scared, I was also amazed to see how closely the gorilla families resembled human species? same familial bonding between members, curious baby gorillas playing with each other, parents foraging for food and feeding the young
Glamping vs camping vs day trips?
For visitors seeking a glamping experience, the luxurious resorts around Volcanoes National Park offer a high-end getaway, with prices ranging from $500 to $4,000 per night. These include properties like Magashi,Bisate, Sabyino, Singita, and One&Only Gorilla’s Nest — some of the most famous and luxurious resorts in the region. These resorts are among the most expensive in Africa. If, like me, you’re looking for a more affordable option, there are also several local camps and day-trip options available. I opted for a day trip to Volcanoes National Park, which is a 4-hour drive from Kigali. However, if you have the flexibility, staying in the park will allow you to have a more relaxed, immersive experience with more time to enjoy the landscape, wildlife, and local culture.
How Baby Gorillas Are Named
Newborn mountain gorillas in Rwanda are given a very special welcome into the world through Kwita Izina, a traditional gorilla naming ceremony held each September at Volcanoes National Park. This annual event, organized by the Rwanda Development Board, celebrates gorilla conservation and has hosted international icons like Didier Drogba, Gilberto Silva, and even King Charles III!.
Each baby gorilla is carefully observed before being named, often based on emerging personality traits. If you miss the event, which I highly recommend timing your trip around, you can still see baby gorillas during guided gorilla trekking tours, usually clinging to their mothers' backs or playfully tumbling through the forest with their siblings—each one full of life, mischief, and wonder
On my trek, a baby gorilla wandered over and brushed his tiny hand across my hiking boot, staring up at me with the wide-eyed curiosity of a human toddler—his nimble fingers twitching as if he wanted to reach out and understand the strange look-alike person in front of him. I had a strong urge to just reach over and cuddle him, but visitors are strictly prohibited from making any physical contact with the gorillas. This is both for their protection and for ours. Gorilla immune systems are highly vulnerable to human diseases, and sudden movements—even well-intentioned—can trigger defensive behavior, particularly from the dominant silverback. Conservation guidelines are clear: look, admire, but don’t touch. Still, if not for those rules (and a bit of common sense), I would’ve scooped that little one into the world’s biggest hug.
Power women protecting the gorillas. Dian Fossey and Ellen DeGeneres have played pivotal roles in the conservation of mountain gorillas. Fossey’s research in Volcanoes National Park laid the foundation for the protection and study of these incredible creatures, while Ellen DeGeneres' Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund continues to provide essential support to protect, study, and rehabilitate gorillas. The center is an excellent stop for anyone visiting the park — offering insights into their ongoing conservation efforts, veterinary care for the gorillas, and a hub for researchers and scientists. I’d highly recommend taking a few hours to explore the center, learn about Fossey’s lasting legacy, and witness how these efforts continue to save the gorilla population
And if you’re anything like me, you might also find yourself digging further back to what was the first study of human-gorilla contact
It was Koko the Gorilla, who was taught sign language by American scientist Penny Patterson at Stanford University. Koko’s ability to communicate with a vocabulary of over 1,000 words bridged the gap between humans and gorillas in a way that sparked deep discussions on animal intelligence and emotion
I would have possibly seen several hours of ‘Koko videos’ in the entire car ride from Kigali to Musanze, and back from Musanze to Kigali. And then there are other lesser known but equally powerful contributors towards animal conservation efforts, the locals in Musanze as well as the tourists like me and possibly you who can contribute through their purse and presence
The Legacy of Dian Fossey and Ellen DeGeneres in Gorilla Conservation, also me
‘City of a Thousand Hills' and flavours
Kigali, often referred to as the "City of a Thousand Hills," is known for its hilly terrain. As you drive through the peaks and valleys or enjoy a round of golf in the city center (which lies in a valley between the hills), you'll also discover a wide variety of local and international flavours. One of the top dining experiences is Meza Malonga, where you can enjoy a 10-course fusion menu featuring Rwandan and international cuisine. Signature dishes include Umutsima (Cassava and Cornbread) and Isombe (Cassava leaves), both of which are widely grown and incorporated into Rwandan meals. This is one dining experience I personally recommend—excellent food, service, and atmosphere.
If you're in the mood for variety, Kigali also offers a number of other dining options. Anda Kigali offers a 7-course meal, including local blends of flavours. For international tastes, you can explore Soy Asian (Asian fusion), Poivre Noir (French cuisine), or Atelier du Vin (wine bar and bistro). If you’re craving grilled food, head over to Choma’d or the Inka Steakhouse. Sole Luna serves up authentic Italian dishes, while Khana Khazana offers Indian food.
On eof the courses at Meza Malonga, Kigali
Ikirezi photobooks & Sebastio Salgado
There are many quaint cafes, bookstores, and hidden gems to explore on the streets of Kigali and one spot you absolutely don't want to miss is Ikirezi. Named after the Kinyarwanda word for "source of knowledge," Ikirezi is more than just a bookstore—it’s a cultural hub that hosts book launches, author readings, workshops, and literary events. Ikirezi also offers some of the best Rwandan coffee and provides a quiet, peaceful space to sit and relax among floor-to-ceiling bookshelves.
During my visit, I stumbled upon the photobook ‘Africa’ by Sebastião Salgado, which now sits proudly on my coffee table in my home in the United States. This collection of photographs by Sebastião Salgado, a renowned Portuguese photographer, has become a cherished conversation piece. His captivating images document the people, landscapes, and wildlife of Africa, offering a look into the continent’s culture and beauty.
Coffee Table Treasure
Hotel Rwanda/ Hotel Mille Collines. For anyone who has seen Hotel Rwanda—and for those who haven’t, I highly recommend it—the film is based on the real-life events that took place at the Hôtel des Mille Collines during the 1994 Rwandan Genocide. This historic hotel, located in the heart of Kigali, still stands today and remains fully operational
I’ll never forget walking alone at 11:45 p.m. from Hotel Serena, where I was staying, to Mille Collines to celebrate my birthday in its underground bar. Yes, it was perfectly safe—even for a 20-something girl in stilettos and a party dress—something that speaks volumes about Kigali’s safety and calm today
The hotel staff kindly offered me a mini tour and shared stories of the property’s history. It was both moving and surreal to walk those halls, knowing the significance of the space and its role in Rwanda's history. If you’re in Kigali, it’s worth a visit—not just for the views or a drink, but to quietly pay respect to the legacy of the hotel and its role in the Rwandan Genocide.
Milles Collines, Hotel Rwanda
Value of grief, Genocide Memorial. Before traveling to Kigali—and especially before visiting the Genocide Memorial—I found myself asking a difficult question, one I also posed to many others:
Is it okay to talk about the events of 1994 with Rwandans?
After all, nearly everyone in the country has been touched by the Rwandan Genocide, either directly or through its generational echoes. The answer to that question revealed itself quietly and powerfully within the walls of the memorial. Rwanda has chosen not to bury its past in silence, but to confront it with honesty, empathy, and collective resolve—which I believe has, in many ways, helped rebuild trust in the society.
In a world where many nations still struggle to acknowledge uncomfortable histories—think of England’s colonial past or the United States's history of slavery—Rwanda’s approach is brave and deeply human. This visit, you should be forewarned, will be profoundly emotional and haunting. For me, and I hope for others as well, it serves as a reminder of the dangers of hatred and intolerance, and the importance of reconciliation and peace
History shaping the present
Paul Kagame, who has served as Rwanda's president since the aftermath of the 1994 Rwandan Genocide, has played a pivotal role in shaping the country's governance and social fabric. From being a key figure in ending the genocide as a leader of the Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF), to setting up Gacaca courts post-war, encouraging restorative justice between survivors and perpetrators, Kagame’s leadership steered Rwanda towards economic growth and national reconciliation. During my interactions with local people, I noticed a deep sense of nation-building and overwhelming support for Kagame’s political leadership. This was not at all surprising. Kagame’s leadership is, although, not without its controversies, with discussions around succession and political freedoms frequently raised. Nonetheless, there was and is no doubt in my mind that memories of Rwanda’s past continue to shape its political and economic decisions today
Kigali Genocide Mmorial, and Murals in the city
Closing reflection, and back to Gorillas: “It is very much worth it”. Every gorilla permit in Rwanda ($1,500-$2,000 yes it is pricey) directly funds conservation efforts, anti-poaching teams, and local communities, making every dollar really count. The best times to go are during the dry seasons (June–September, December–February), when trekking conditions are ideal. All the treks happen in groups of 5-8. I happened to be placed in a group of wildlife photographers and so I returned with great memories and prized posessions of the best moments captured. One of these pictures is my phone wallpaper, partly to remininscence this trek, and partly to talk about and encourage everyone around me to try experiencing this for themselves
